Argentina is the most important wine-producing country in South America. Many important European grape varieties arrived here, among them their signature variety Malbec, with European settlers before the phylloxera struck Europe. They have diverse and high-quality planting material, further enhanced by colonnal and mass selection and research. The result that Argentinian clones have small berries, smaller bunches, and softer tannins than the ones you can find in France. Although most of the 20th century Argentina was isolated from the rest of the world because of political and economic crises, the country's high wine consumption kept the industry going. From the 1980's the industry's focus shifted towards black grapes instead of white, from local markets to export markets. They put quality in the forefront instead of quantity and preferring international varieties like Malbec instead of the local varieties. Malbec is Argentina's most planted (about 20% of all plantings) grape.
It is sensitive to spring frosts and coulure which is a significant problem in Mendoza. It produces deep coloured, robust, fruity wines with weight, structure and with the beneficial effects of oak ageing resulting juicy, fruity full-bodied reds. Malbec is a vigorous grape, and in warm conditions it produces full-bodied wines, with high levels of soft tannins, high alcohol and juicy blackberry and plum fruit. This was one of the reasons why Argentinian Malbec became so popular on the export markets. The other is that it can produce a wide range of styles from inexpensive lighter, fruity wines intended for early drinking through mid-priced, more structured, rustic reds, to premium or even super premium age-worthy, savoury, concentrated wines. It is very food friendly as well. It is used for blending with Bonarda, Syrah or Bordeaux grape varieties. Again, in a range of styles from inexpensive to super-premium. It also produces fresh roses.
The export boom of Argentinian Malbec stated around the year 2000 thanks to a very weak peso. It became very popular in the US and UK as it was cheap and reliably good quality. This trend, however, changed in the last five years as inflation lead to dramatic rise in production costs. The vagaries of weather also caused some trouble. The El Nino effect caused significant frosts, which lead to very low yields. Finally, the Argentinian government put restrictions in place to control the foreign ownership of land that substantially slowed foreign investment. The different altitudes, micro-climates can significantly affect the style of wine. Clear skies, dry conditions, cool and clean meltwater from the Andes are promising for quality viticulture. In the dry continental climate in higher altitudes there is hardly any decomposing organic matter, so these soils are particularly poor. In these areas low-yielding vines are normal and high-quality viticulture is practiced. Such areas with calcareous soils with larger stones are in Uco Valley in Pareje Altamira and Pedernal Valley in San Juan. As vineyards planted from 500m to 3300m the latitude and altitude are important mitigating factors. With altitudes this high the diurnal temperature range is wide, over 20 C. The cooler night temperatures extend the growing season and help to build flavour and retain acidity. The low latitude and high altitude also help to get intense sunlight with a high proportion of UV lights with leads to higher amounts of tannins and deeper colour (anthocyanins).
The country lies in the shadow of the Andes, so the yearly rainfall can be as low as 200mm or even less at places, so irrigation is essential. With foreign investments, drip irrigation is increasingly used, and better canopy management techniques and vineyard and winery practices are applied. The air is very dry, so the disease stress is low, but strong winds, like the zonda can seriously damage grapes and can cause water stress. Hail is another serious threat on the summer and the most prized vineyards are netted against it. Many growers own different vineyards in different parts of the wine regions to minimize the risk of losing the entire crop to hail and frost. Argentina is also affected by the aforementioned El Nino phenomenon that occur every two to ten years and brings much higher-than-average rainfall and hailstone, so it can reduce crops considerably, like in 2016 when Mendoza lost almost 40% of its entire crop.
Although phylloxera is not a significant problem thanks to the sandy nature of the soils and the arid nature of the climate, and the very traditional flood irrigation. Having said that, grafting is increasingly common because of the nematode problem. In cooler, higher altitude sites, the wine is lower in alcohol, with a medium, medium+ acidity, firm medium+ tannins and fresh red and black fruit flavours, floral and some herbal aromas. From lower altitudes and warmer sites, it has a fuller body with ripe black fruit character, medium acidity, and softer tannins. Producers with different micro-climatic sites often blend the different styles of wines, but single vineyard selections are increasingly popular where the producers can showcase the particular style and quality of these vineyards.
Argentina's vineyards planted in alluvial soils deposited by rivers flowing down from the Andes. It varies with altitude, with the higher altitude, it is mostly larges stones with calcareous deposits, the middle areas it is gravelly, sand and silt, whereas the lower areas have deeper clay-loam soils that are rich in nutrients. Mendoza is the largest wine-producing province in Argentina with plantings between 500m -1500m. Over 60% is black grape and Malbec is the quarter of all plantings here. Its five separate division produce distinctly different styles of wines that are often blended. Norther and Easter Mendoza are on plains at a relatively lower altitude. These areas produce inexpensive, large volume wines, but some higher quality ones as well. Central Mendoza or 'Primera Zona' is the home of the country's leading producers of high-quality wine at an altitude of 600m-1100m. The two most prestigious departments here Lujan de Cuyo (above 900m) and Maipu (between 600m-900m). Lujan de Cuyo is particularly famous for its old Malbec vines and it was the first DOC created in Argentina. The wines from this area typically aged 24 months with 12 in oak. Within Lujan de Cuyo there are well- known district level GI's like Las Compuertas, the highest vineyards in the area, producing full-bodied fruity reds with firm tannins and considerable ageing potential for premium prices. Agrelo is another one of these GI's. At a lower altitude producing riper, elegant, structured wines with ageing potential. Maipu, at around 600m-900m altitude, is warmer producing intensely fruity, full-bodied wines from its considerable population of old Malbec with higher alcohol and softer tannins. Uco Valley with the highest altitude vineyards in Mendoza, over 1500m, which means cooler temperatures, wider diurnal range. This means slower sugar accumulation, the ability to retain acidity and freshness and with the intense sunshine and high proportion of UV lights, ripe tannins and deep colour develops. Uco Valley has three departments: Tupungato, Tunuyan and San Carlos. Tupungato is the highest of them all producing fresh, full-bodied reds from Malbec amongst others. The most recognised district here is Gualtallary. It is around 1600m has limestone soils with distinctive, complex wines and the lightest style of Malbecs in the whole of Argentina, with high acidity red and black fruit and herbal characteristics. Tunuyan is in a wider range of altitudes, generally warmer, producing fruity fuller bodied, riper Malbecs. San Carlos is recognised for its old vine Malbecs with lower altitude and warmer temperatures. Here is Paraje Altamira GI produces fuller-bodied, intense wines with ageing potential. In Southern Mendoza between 450m-800m altitudes produces Malbec that is usually sent away to blend in high quality wines. Malbecs here tend to be more medium- bodied. La Rioja produces inexpensive high-volume Malbecs amongst other wines in the Famantina Valley. In Salta where the vineyards at an extremely high altitude (between 1500m-3000m) and close to the Equator, grapes develop high anthocyanins and tannins and mountains provide shade for the grapes, shortening exposure to the intense sunlight. Grapes protecting themselves by developing thicker skin and lower yields. Malbecs here are full-bodied, high in alcohol, with medium+ acidity, ripe black fruit character and herbal, floral notes.
Photographs by The Tannin Addict.